Tuesday, January 29, 2013

1929 MODEL A Ford E.J. Walton Boattail Roadster Car for Sale

It was relatively simple even in the days of Henry Ford's Model T and Model A to load up a roadster with speed parts and accessories but true craftsmen took creation of their personal rides many steps farther.

One of them was E.J. Walton who created this one-of-a-kind Model A. Walton is believed to have been one of the principal fabricators and body builders for Harry Miller, reportedly the fabricator behind the Miller-Fords and Gulf-Millers. This 1929 Ford Model A Roadster is believed to have been built as his personal car. While its engine is modestly hot rodded with a copper plated cylinder head, fabricated copper intake manifold, Stromberg downdraft carb, custom exhaust and Mallory dual point distributor. But it is the custom coachwork that sets this Ford apart from all but the highest concept custom roadsters. The complete body -- hood, passenger compartment and custom boattail rear deck -- is hand hammered out of aluminum, then left unpainted in an object demonstration of superb panel beating and joining skills.

The radiator is contained within a hand made vee-front rounded shell painted black. The hood sides are separated by a fixed center panel with four stack-like projections, also in black to complement the radiator shell. The hood sides have diamond-shaped embellishments in black which are repeated in slightly different proportions on the frame covers under the doors. The breathing areas of the bodywork - grille, hood sides and the decorative elements under the doors - are covered with basket weave metal mesh. Black fenders, frame covers and running boards set off the aluminum body. The rear deck of the body is gently rounded in a semi-boattail shape with an opening lid for luggage and tools. Red wire wheels, including a pair of sidemounted spares, provide a touch of color. It is upholstered in black leather with a black cloth top and has been carefully maintained with attention to cosmetics like the paint on the fenders and the upholstery. In addition to its oral history connection with E.J. Watson its origins are supported by its present chain of title which begins in Asheville, NC where Walton settled after his racing days were over. A meticulously constructed example of the talent and creativity of an old-school fabricator, sympathetically preserved for years, this 1929 Ford Model A Custom roadster is a piece of American automobile history with style, performance and delightful patina.
$76,500.00 

Stock Number: 4715
Please visit the Purchasing Info section if you are interested in a car or call us at
314-524-6000 for immediate assistance.




























Saturday, January 26, 2013

Sand Blasting Cabinet Plans



http://www.scribd.com/doc/122324365/Sand-Blaster-Cabinet-Plans


Ford Model A - Modification Front Brake



Modification Front Brake
This is the brake wedge with the wedge stud and they can normally not float from side so side.
Modification Front Brake
Here you can see the mounted wedge on the bottom of the picture.
Modification Front Brake
On the left hand side you can see the original wedge and on the right hand side the wedge floater kit. The floater kit allows the wedge to float, so both brake shoes will be pressed with the same pressure to the brake drum and this gives you a better brake.
Modification Front Brake
Here you can see the difference, the stud on the right is smaller. You don't have to make this modification yourself, Snyder's or Bratton's do have this item on stock.

Source:  http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/mod_vorderbremse.en.html

Ford Model A - Cover for rear camshaft bushing



The rear camshaft bushing is normally open and the cause for oil leaks. It is normally only covered by a gasket between the Engine block and the flywheel housing. If the flywheel housing lays not properly on the engine block, an oil leak is the result. What I did is to close the bushing with a plug. This modification is not my idea, it is published in the book 'The Model A Engine' written by William H. McRee and Paul H. McRee (Page 58/59). In the book they used an existing freeze plug and I have added a blueprint for those who want to make one.
Nockenwellen Deckel
This is the end of the camshaft with the self made plug.
Nockenwellen Deckel
My plug was newly made on a lathe.
Nockenwellen Deckel
This are the blueprints to make your own plug. To get a better view just click here onto blueprint or into the picture.
Nockenwellen Deckel
The camshaft was too long and I had to grind it a little bit until I hat an end play of about 0,5mm between camshaft and freeze plug.
Nockenwellen Deckel
This is how the rear bearing with camshaft inserted looks like.
Nockenwellen Deckel
The freezing plug is a little bit oversized and can be inserted with a hammer. Then make sure that the camshaft does not get in contact on the inner side of the plug. Now you should never see any oil under your flywheel housing.




Ford Model A - Sealing the transmission shaft (gear box)



The transmission can be the cause of an oil leak. Therefore I have modified this part of the gear box.
In the lower part of the picture you can see the two gear shafts.
Here you can see the modified gear shaft on the left hand side with an O-ring. On the left is the old original one. You don't have to make this modification by yourself, you can buy it at Bratton's.

Source:  http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/mod_getriebewelle.en.html

Ford Model A - Improved lubrication of emergency brake


The emergency brake toggle lever has originally no grease fitting. The same is with the toggle lever at the emergency brake handle. I supported them both with grease fittings.
I have drilled a 4mm hole into the axle. In the middle of the axle I drilled a second hole which goes from outside until the center of the axle and let the grease come out. At the position where the grease fitting is mounted, I have enlarged the hole until I could press in the fitting. Be careful when you press in the fittings, you should use a special tool for that, otherwise you'll destroy them when you are using just a hammer.
These parts are new, since the old ones were completely destroyed by rust.


Source: http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/mod_schmiernippel.en.html

Ford Model A - Oil hole for rear camshaft bushing



My engine is an early 29er model and has no oil hole at the rear camshaft bushing. In the 'Model A Ford Service Bulletins' is described how you can add this hole correctly. This is a modification which was done also by Ford in former times.
This is the hole where oil can run from the valve chamber directly into the rear bushing.
To get a hole at the right position I used an old bolt and filed a notch on one side. All details are described in the book mentioned above.
The notch acts as a guidance for my long drill to make the hole with the right angle.


Source:  http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/mod_nockenwellenlager.en.html

Restoring the Ford Model A - Seven Tooth Steering Box



Ford Model A - Seven Tooth Steering Box

Seven Tooth Steering Box
My Ford Model A has a Seven Tooth Steering Box which was used in the 1928/29 model. This steering box is not the best construction and is the cause of oil leakage and hard steering. This is the reason why I have modified the whole steering box and made it much better than Ford has made it originally.

The idea to this modification is not from me but from Bob Barnes, Stratford, Connecticut. Bob has described all these Modifications in the September / October 2002 issue of 'The Restorer' (Club magazine of the MAFCA ). Bob has also supported me by sending blueprints how I have to make the conversion to needle bearings. Many thanks Bob for your help and support and as you can see everything worked fine!
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Three of all four modifications are visible on this picture. On top of the picture you see the steering column end plate with the an additional O-ring. On the right is the Steering shaft felt retainer with an additional tube and at the bottom are the two needle bearings.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
The fourth modification is made at the steering box itself. I have moved the original grease fitting by one inch to the right side (up). With this change you can fill more oil into the steering box and the steering bushing is better lubricated.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
This hole had to be enlarged by a machine shop in order to install new needle bearings.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Here you see the version with needle bearings on top and with the original sector bushings below.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
The needle bearings are pressed in.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Here are both on its place.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
The self made distance tube is not really necessary but I wanted to be on the save side.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Finally the seal is pressed in.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Then the steering shaft with the steering worm and the bearings are inserted.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
The end play is adjusted with brass gaskets
Seven Tooth Steering Box
I have supported the steering column end plate with an O-ring to prevent oil leakage.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
When there is no end play anymore of the sector shaft, the 7 tooth sector can be inserted.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
When you mount the steering column end plate, use a gasket sealer.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Put also some Loctite to the threads of the three bolts.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
When the plate is mounted, the end play can be adjusted.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
This steering shaft felt retainer is available from Bratton's and is the last piece in the puzzle to make the steering box leakage free. In the lower part of the picture you see the original item. It may be necessary to enlarge the hole in the shaft a little bit so the tube will fit into the hole.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Then the spark and gas rods can be mounted.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Don't forget the steering shaft felt (anti rattler).
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Finally the two control arms can be riveted to the rods.
Seven Tooth Steering Box
Then you can fill the box with 600W oil and I'm confidential that I will never have any trouble with my steering box.

Source:  http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/mod_lenksaeule.en.html