Model A Ford Steering by Neal Anderson 
From
 Judging Standards: There were two types of steering assemblies used 
during the years of the Model A production. The first was the Ford 
designed 7-tooth gear, eventually replaced by the Gemmer design 2-tooth 
steering gear. 
The
 7-tooth type is correct for all vehicles through March 1930. The 
7-tooth column can be identified by a plain lower housing with only a 
lubrication fitting on the upper side. A second Alemite fitting was 
added to the housing over the sector in September 1928. This second 
fitting was used only on the 7-tooth assemblies. The 2-tooth assembly 
first appeared in February 1929 and continued to the end of production. 
The 2-tooth column had either a 1/8” lubrication fitting or a pipe plug 
on the steering gear housing until October 1929. Thereafter, a 1/4” NPT 
pipe plug was used. 
There
 were five different castings used for the 2-tooth gear housings. The 
first had the words “Gemmer” and “PAT.PDG” in raised letters on the 
outer surface (don’t have). The second type had the “Gemmer” and 
“Pat.Pend” indented in the surface. Both the first and the second 
appeared in February 1929. The third type had “Gemmer” and “Patended” 
indented in the surface and was used from April 1929 thru mid 1930. Each
 of the first three had a large raised “F” on the engine side. The 
fourth type had no identification except an indented “A-3550-C” on the 
engine side. The fifth style was the same but had a raised , 5/16” or 
9/16” letter “F” on the outer side. Both the fourth and fifth were used 
from January 1930 thru the end of production. 
Instructions for Judging: When
 judging the steering function, the desired condition is firmness 
without binding. Since the entire steering system is subject to constant
 movement, the resulting wear will be apparent when the steering wheel 
is moved from side to side. No appreciable looseness should be 
tolerated. There should be no more than 2 inches of free movement. The 
column should not rotate or move in the frame. The steering wheel should
 be tight on the shaft and have no up or down movement. No oil should be
 detected on the light switch housing nor should there be evidence of 
oil leaks from the sector housing. No gasket was installed between the 
bail plate and the gear housing. There should be no cracks on the 
steering column where the lower ends of the throttle and spark rods 
extend. 
7-tooth 
A number of years ago, Paul Carlson and Chuck Maas gave a clinic presentation on the 7-tooth steering gear box. It is in the Clinic Overhaul Manual. It contains every thing you need to know about the 7-tooth assembly.
A number of years ago, Paul Carlson and Chuck Maas gave a clinic presentation on the 7-tooth steering gear box. It is in the Clinic Overhaul Manual. It contains every thing you need to know about the 7-tooth assembly.
2-tooth 
Also, in the Clinic Overhaul Manual is a handout by Chet Larson. Overhaul of the 2-tooth steering assembly.
Also, in the Clinic Overhaul Manual is a handout by Chet Larson. Overhaul of the 2-tooth steering assembly.
Adjustment for the 2-tooth Steering Column (Out of Car) 
There are three basic types of adjustment: 
1. End play of steering shaft.
2. End play of the steering sector.
3. Alignment of the sector gear teeth in worm gear
1. End play of steering shaft.
2. End play of the steering sector.
3. Alignment of the sector gear teeth in worm gear
It
 is advisable when making these adjustments to follow the procedure in 
chronological order. Steering column removed from car and all repairs 
completed. 
1.
 For adjustment of end play in the steering shaft turn the steering 
wheel to the extreme, then back 1/8 turn. By loosening the housing clamp
 bolt which is located on the backside of the steering column and by 
releasing the jam nut, the thrust screw can now be screwed downward 
thereby pushing the upper bearing assembly and bearings down toward the 
worm gear. Make sure you have turned this adjustment down tightly. When 
re-tightening the jam nut, back off approximately 1/6 of a turn on the 
thrust screw. Make sure you secure the housing bolt. Turn steering wheel
 from lock to lock and be sure there is no binding. 
2.
 To adjust the end play in the steering sector turn the steering wheel 
to the extreme, then back 1/8 turn. (If replacing the original steering 
sector shaft, make sure the is no worn spot on the end of the shaft and 
also on the thrust screw – see example). Be sure that all housing bolts 
are tight. Loosen the jam nut that secures the thrust screw on the side 
of the housing. Using a screwdriver turn in a clockwise direction until 
screw is snug. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock being sure 
there is no binding 
3.
 The last adjustment is for alignment of the sector gear teeth in the 
worm gear. This is the most complicated of the adjustments to make. 
Temporarily install pitman arm on sector shaft. The worm gear and sector
 teeth are machined in such a way that a close mesh occurs only at the 
central position. This corresponds to straight ahead driving range, with
 the tolerance increasing towards the extremes of the worm gear. Shake 
the pitman arm to determine the amount of lost (looseness) motion. Start
 by turning the steering gear to the center position of its travel. 
Loosen the hosing cover nuts 1/4 turn and the eccentric sleeve jam nut 
1/2 turn. Turn the eccentric adjusting sleeve clockwise very gradually, 
checking at each movement the amount of lost motion in the pitman arm. 
Adjust to the point when lash can just be felt at the pitman arm, being 
sure to always bias the eccentric sleeve in the clockwise direction. 
Check by turning the steering wheel through its full travel. If it is 
too tight, turn the eccentric sleeve in a counter-clockwise direction 
until the gear is free and make the adjustment again more carefully. 
Next, check for tooth contact centralization. In making this adjustment,
 the check must start with the sector shaft teeth meshed at the central 
position of the worm gear. The center position is found by turning the 
steering shaft to the center position of its travel and locating the 
keyway in line with the worm adjusting screw. Turn the steering shaft 
1/2 turn to the right and shake the pitman arm and note the amount of 
play at this point. Now turn the steering shaft 1 complete turn to the 
left and shake the pitman arm. The lash should be the same as when 
turned to the right. 
Re-install steering column in car. 
Steering Sector Housing Needle Bearing. 
Bratton’s can have your sector hosing machined and needle bearings installed. Before installing the sector shaft through the housing, smear some grease on the seal and the thrust washer.
Bratton’s can have your sector hosing machined and needle bearings installed. Before installing the sector shaft through the housing, smear some grease on the seal and the thrust washer.
When
 filling the rebuilt steering gear box with oil after it has been 
installed in the car, don’t over-fill it. Put in just enough gear oil 
(about 4 1/2 ounces) to cover the worm, as seen down the filler hole. If
 you fill it to the top, gear oil will leak out the back of the gear box
 around the upper bearing cup until it reaches its level. Use only 600w 
gear box oil (never chassis grease – the worm, sector and bearing must 
have an oil bath). You can add a little STP or equivalent to make it 
slicker and a little thicker, but never STP alone. 
Source: http://www.tcmafc.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=108&Itemid=101 
 
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