Tuesday, November 1, 2016

How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

 It's not everyday that i see what i consider a 'novel approach' to Model A 'Stance' issues...within many circles of car collecting, stance issues have surpassed performance issues...that is NOT the case with this inventive approach by a user named LeroyM over on the Ford Barn...(Original Post)

 This is an update on my earlier post about how to lower a Model A. First I have to give credit to a few people who gave me some tips and tricks on making this whole thing come together. Fordbarner’s NealinCA, kelly’s restoration and H.A.M.B’er Elrod’s post answered a lot of questions I had. Also Fordbarner JM 35 Sedan for letting me have the axle I needed.

My original goal was to lower my Model A coupe but still run mechanical brakes and use the original shocks. I had broken springs so I bought a new reverse eyed front spring from Snyder’s. That lowered the front 1 inch but I still wanted to go lower and the ride with the new springs was very stiff so I took three springs out of the ten leaf pack. The springs I took out were 2, 3 and 4 from the top of the spring pack. This lowered the front another 1 1/4”. I still wasn’t happy with the look and wanted to go lower. To do this I need to do some research and find some hard to find parts.

The parts to go lower were 32-34 spring perches, 32 spindles and a 32-36 axle. Total time to find theses parts were about a month. Once I found the parts everything worked fine with new Model A kingpins and bushings from Mac’s and Model A spring shackles from Snyder’s. Two problems I ran into were bushings for the 32 spring perches. No one makes them so I had to go to the machine shop and get a piece of 3/4” pipe that had a 1/2” inside diameter and drill the center out to 9/16” to allow the Model A shackles to fit. The other problem I had was tie rod ball studs. I did not order any since I thought the Model A tie rod ball studs came off but they do not since they are all one piece.

One other thing that is needed is a 1/4” spacer to go between the axle and wishbone since the 32-36 axle is 2” and the Model A wishbone is 2 1/4”. I looked all over to find theses spacers and ended up finding them at Fastenal. They had to be ordered and were called a extra heavy fender washer that was 1/4” x 1 1/2”. The center hole was 1/4 but a 11/16 drill bit took care of drilling them out to allow them to work for what I needed.

The end result with the new axle brought the front end down another 1 3/4” for a total drop with everything of right at 4” inches lower from stock. With 600x16’s in the front and 700x16’s in the back it puts the look right where I want it which is a late 40’s to early 50’s style look.

I did some measuring and right at the center of the wheel to the bottom lower lip of the fender comes to be 27 1/2" and right in the center of the front radiator apron I have 7 1/2".

Here’s a few pictures I took this afternoon. If anyone has any questions let me know.

Thanks.










Source:  http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12576

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

How Baby Boomers Created Today's Classic-Car Market—and How They Could Crash It

For Sale by Boomer: Hagerty's Rob Sass examines the future of the collector-car industry.

A demographic shift looms: Some 76 million baby boomers will soon reach retirement age, crushing the health-care system and the social safety net with their massive numbers. But we have a greater concern: Who’s going to buy all their cars?
“I think that boomers are taking a more practical approach to baggage. We want to lighten our loads sooner,” says Charlie Kuhn, a 52-year-old collector from the Chicago area. “Guys not much older than me are selling because their kids aren’t interested. I’m already thinking about downsizing.”
The best estimates we have at the Hagerty Group, which sells classic-car insurance, peg the number of collector cars in the U.S. at roughly 5 million, of which 58 percent are owned by baby boomers, or those born from 1946 through 1964. Our data says that the median age of collector-car owners is 56 years. The oldest boomers are approaching 70, and their interest in the hobby is starting to wane. We won’t see a generation of similar size until the so-called millennials hit their peak earning years in a few decades. It’s questionable whether they will care about the cars of their grandfathers and great-grandfathers—or any cars, for that matter.

Confusing the issue further is the fact that the collector-car market is surging right now. Last July, a 1954 Mercedes W196 racer crossed the block for $29.6 million, smashing the old record for a price paid at auction by more than $13 million. Then in August, a ’67 Ferrari 275 GTB/4-S NART Spyder took in $27.5 million, the highest price ever for a road car. However, for all those blue-blood auction results, and some hot niches within the hobby as a whole, there are far more examples of mundane Detroit iron sitting in the garages of graybeards. A vast majority of collector cars in the U.S. are, predictably, American—some 80 percent, according to Hagerty data. It’s this backbone of the hobby that is likely in trouble.
We at Hagerty maintain a stock-market-style index for various sectors of the classic-car market. The one for 1950s American classics is precisely where it was in January 2010, indicating that demand for formerly appreciating blue chippers, such as the 1955–57 Chevrolet Bel Air, has likely peaked [see above]. Even the ’55–57 Thunderbird two-seaters—once considered the bluest of blue-chips—are struggling.
“They’re astonishingly cheap now,” says Bob Lichty, a Canton, Ohio, dealer who’s been part of the classic-car industry for about 40 years. “The guys who wanted them new are starting to age out of the hobby. A ’60s ‘Bullet Bird’ convertible is easier to move now.” 

As we speculate about how the collector-car market might change in the next two decades, it’s helpful to consider some history. Car collecting traces its roots to the Great Depression, which extinguished grand American marques such as Auburn, Cord, and Duesenberg and ended the era of bespoke coachbuilding. Having saved western civilization during World War II, members of the Greatest Generation turned to saving America’s prewar automotive heritage. They realized with startling prescience that the “classic era,” as it became known, represented bygone automotive craftsmanship. They collected, preserved, and restored these cars and started clubs such as the Classic Car Club of America and the Antique Automobile Club of America. On the whole, the World War II generation was a good steward of the hobby it created, collecting the aspirational cars of its youth in a pattern that collectors have followed ever since.

And so it went until the early 1970s, when the collector-car auction business began. Prices for prewar cars rose steadily until the late 1990s when they hit the wall, in part because of oversupply. As the Greatest Generation aged, they scaled back by selling off collections. And as more collectors began to die, the market for prewar cars dried up. The stagnant prices of ’50s American cars hint that history may be repeating itself. 

“As different generations age out, their cars do, too,” says dealer Lichty. “While the owners may die, the cars don’t. They don’t become worthless, but there’s a shift in the types of people who buy them and the types of collections where they go.” The Cadillac V-16s and Duesenbergs survived the shift from the World War II ­generation just fine, Lichty explains, but ordinary mid-1920s and ’30s cars, such as Buicks and Dodges, are stone cold right now. “They’re certainly not worthless, just hard to get rid of,” he says.
Some baby boomers did embrace the classics of their parents’ era, rightfully recognizing them as objets d’art and pieces of history. This was helped by the sheer volume of boomers, enough to absorb the best collector cars extant while also preserving the cars of their own era. But we shouldn’t expect this phenomenon to be repeated. Not only has the sheer volume of collector cars grown, but the next generation in the line of succession, the so-called Generation X, isn’t as large or as enthusiastic as the boomers.
Kuhn, the Chicago collector, says: “I own a ’34 Buick. It was built 28 years before I was born. I like it because my dad liked them. But our children aren’t developing an interest in collector cars. There are too many things going on to capture their attention: travel, sports, the internet, and social media.”

One possibility is that the European market could absorb many of the boomers’ cars. Michael Sheehan, a Los Angeles–based Ferrari broker, says that “50 percent of my sales of 1950s and ’60s Ferraris are to European buyers.” Most of the cars go to England and are registered there, Sheehan explains, because the U.K. taxes historic cars at 5 percent, versus 30 percent for the EU. “Europeans are looking for places to park tax-free money, and collectible cars are a particularly wonderful place to do it.”
But there are only so many cars that can go to Europe, where anti-car ­sentiment and corresponding legislation continue to grow. And in China, where incomes are swelling, the government has banned all cars older than 15 years, making importation extremely difficult. Even if we can count on Europeans to absorb some of the boomers’ cars, outside of the curious Scandinavian predilection for Yank tanks, Europeans seem most interested in repatriating their own automotive heritage. For example, early Porsche 911s are white-hot right now

Tastes change, a fact that will likely also affect the hobby. While today’s collector-car market is dominated by mostly original cars and more-or-less accurate restorations, the future may be about restomods—old cars with modern equipment. Heretical as this may be to some, anecdotal evidence already suggests that restomod buyers tend to be younger, which makes sense. Gen Xers and millennials don’t work on their cars as much, with high-school shop classes having been largely eliminated just as computerized complexity made self-wrenching more difficult.

The restomod market is already strong today thanks to the reliability that goes along with replacing 50-year-old guts with something newer. So, too, is the market for clean, complete cars ready to accept a crate engine and an automatic transmission. A declining number of drivers can even operate a manual, which brings up another likely change for the hobby: automatics getting the price premium over manuals. 

Car collecting as a pastime won’t fade away—horses still enjoy an enthusiastic following more than 100 years after being displaced by the car. But the hobby will certainly evolve. The internet continues to transform it, ameliorating the scarcity of parts, bringing owners together to share information, and increasing the supply of cars. Many of the old rules about what defines a collector car and the relative ­values of different types are likely to be challenged. The Holy Grail or Hemi ’Cuda of the next generation may well come from abroad—an E30 BMW M3 or an Alex Zanardi–edition Acura NSX. One thing won’t change, however: The happiest people in the hobby are the ones who buy what they like first and let the market worry about return on investment.

Rob Sass is VP of content at Hagerty, the collector-car insurance and services company.

Source: http://www.caranddriver.com/features/baby-boomers-created-the-classic-car-marketand-could-crash-it-feature

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Model A Engine Specifications Specs


Ford Model A Engine Specifications

Nut Sizes:
  • Front Motor Mount Castle Nut: 7/16″-20
  • Engine Head Nuts (grade 8): 7/16″-20
  • Connecting Rod Castle Nut: 7/16″-20
  • Ratchet Nut (attaches bottom pulley to crankshaft): 5/8″-18
  • Main Bearing Bolt Castle Nut: 1/2″-20
Stud Sizes:
  • Regular Head Studs: 3 1/2″ Long
  • Water Neck Studs: 5 3/4″ Long
Bolt Sizes:
  • Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts: Four 7/16-20 by 13/16″ Long
  • Flywheel Housing to Block: Four 7/16″-14 by 1 1/16″ Long and two 7/16-14 by 1 11/16″ Long
  • Timing Cover Bolts: 3/8″-16 by 1 1/8″ Long
  • Side Timing Gear Bolts:One 7/16″-14 by 2 3/16″ Long and one 7/16″-14 by 1 3/8″ Long (lock washers can be used)
Torque Specs:
  • High Compression Head: 65 lbs
  • Standard Head: 55 lbs
  • Main Bearing Cap Torque 80-100 lbs
  • Flywheel Bolt Torque 65 ft/lbs
Specifications:
  • The stock compression ratio was about 4.22:1
  • Piston displacement 200.5 cu. Inches
  • Bore 3.875″
  • Rated H.P. 24.03 SAE
  • Brake H.P. 40
  • Firing Order 1-2-4-3
  • Stroke 4.250″
  • Gas Tank
    • 28/29– 10 GAL.
    • 30/31– 11 GAL.
Valves:
  • Valve lift .287″
  • Seat Angle: 45°
  • Stem Diameter: .311″
  • Port Diameter: 1 3/8″
  • Valve Opening Diameter: 1 3/8″
  • Valve Guide Clearance:
  • Exhaust: .002″
  • Intake: .001-.0015
  • Valve Spring Length:
  • Free: 2 15/16″
  • Compressed Length: 2 1/4″
  • Valve Spring Force (compressed): 57-64 lbs.
  • Valve Timing:
    • Intake:
      • Opens 7 1/2° before TDC (top dead center)
      • Closes 48 1/2° after BDC (bottom dead center)
    • Exhaust:
      • Opens 51 1/2° before BDC
      • Closes 4 1/2° after TDC
Flywheel:
  • Weight: 63 lbs., 4 oz.
  • Balance: Within .15 In/oz.
  • Clutch Mounting Surface: True with crankshaft within .005″ TIR.
  • Clutch Mounting Shoulder Diameter: Concentric with crank flange diameter within .005″ TIR.
Carburetor:
  • Throat Size: 1″
  • Float Level: 1″ from float to machined surface.
  • Main Jet: #63 drill bit
  • Cap Jet: #63 drill bit
  • Idle Jet: # 75 drill bit
Carburetor Assembly
Click Image to Enlarge
Carburetor Info
Click Image to Enlarge
Carburetor Adjustment
Click Image to Enlarge
Exhaust System:
  • Exhaust Pipe: 2″ ID (Inside Diameter)
  • Tail Pipe: 1-5/8″ ID
Miscellaneous:
    • To remove a stuck head from a “firing” engine you can loosen the head nuts about 1/8″ from the head and start the motor the compression will pop the head up and the motor will stall.
    • Crankshaft weight 28 lbs.
    • Engine Oil Capacity:
  • From Empty: 5 Quarts
  • Oil Change: 4 1/2 Quarts
  • Spark Plugs: Champion 3X, 7/8″-18
  • Spark Gap: .035″
Engine Oiling System
Model A Engine Head Torquing Procedure



IMG_1016
IMG_1014




Source:  http://www.motormayhem.net/model-a-ford-reference-page/engine-specifications/

Sunday, March 8, 2015

Steward Warner Date Codes



Stewart Warner date codes




Year of Manufacture

A - 1933
B - 1934
C - 1935
D - 1936
E - 1937
F - 1938
G - 1939
H - 1940
J - 1941
K - 1942
L - 1943
M - 1944
N - 1945
P - 1946
Q - 1947
R - 1948
S - 1949
T - 1950
U - 1951
V - 1952
W - 1953
X - 1954
Y - 1955
Z - 1956
A - 1957
B - 1958
C - 1959
D - 1960
E - 1961
F - 1962
G - 1963
H - 1964
J - 1965
K - 1966
L - 1967
M - 1968
N - 1969
P - 1970
Q - 1971
R - 1972
S - 1973
T - 1974
U - 1975
V - 1976
W - 1977
X - 1978
Y - 1979
Z - 1980



Month of Manufacture

1 - January
2 - February
3 - March
4 - April
5 - May
6 - June
7 - July
8 - August
9 - September
10 - October
11 - November
12 - December

Sunday, December 21, 2014

1934 Radiator Shells




Down and dirty version of how to identify a '34 radiator shell from an eBay correspondence...

The Radiator Shell pictured is a One Year Only 1934 Ford Pickup/Panel Delivery/Big Truck. It is Missing the Stainless Steel Grill Trim, the Holes in the shell is for the Grill Trim Clips, also it's Missing the Chrome BullNose that has a Ford Script Blue Emblem.

Friday, July 4, 2014

Valve Adjustments




If you have adjustable lifters, the best method is the "9" method.

Number valves from front to back 1 through 8.

It is fairly easy to determine when a valve is at the top of it's lift. When you have reached that position on #1 valve you adjust the corresponding valve to equal "9". In this case it's #8 valve.

Continue with 2&7, 3&6, 4&5, 5&4, 6&3, 7&2 and finallly 8&1.

If you use different clearances for intake and exhaust, you need to pay attention. I put a piece of masking tape along the bottom of the ports and mark the settings there and cross them off as I finish.


First of all, forget about where the pistons are at. The tappets (push rod as Ford called them) must be adjusted with thin wrenches when they are on the peak of the cam lobe, and the clearance must be checked when they are on the heel (lowest point). Hand crank the engine a few times and watch the valve stems and you will see this.
Ideally, you would want to adjust the gap when the valve tappet was on the heel of the lobe and the gap could be measured with feelers. Unfortunately, the tappet adjustments are not accessible at that position, and the cam must be rotated and the tappet raised to make an adjustment. At that point the tappet can be adjusted, but the gap cannot be checked. Thus a lot of cranking is typically required.

Here's the trick:

Valves are numbered one through eight from front to back. For whichever valve tappet is on a cam lobe peak at a given instance, there is another valve tappet which is on its lobe's heel.
By knowing the relationship between the valves, (Rule Of Nine), you can do two things at once and adjust and measure multiple valves in steady progression (if you keep track of things). This will greatly minimize the amount of cranking and adjusting necessary.


The way the Rule Of Nine relationship works is like this: If for instance #6 valve is full open, then it can be adjusted with wrenches. Also at the same time the #3 valve tappet ("9" minus "6" equals "3") is on the heel of its cam lobe and its gap can be measured at the same time as #6 is being adjusted.
Now crank a little more until a different valve is full up, and adjust it and/or measure the gap on the other valve tappet whose sum equals "9" (e.g. if #2 is full up, then #7 can be measured, and #2 could also be adjusted if you know how much). Keep cranking until a different valve is up, and adjust it and measure the gap of the one whose sum equals "9".
Adjustable self-locking valve tappets have a 24 pitch bolt, which means that one revolution of the bolt equals changing the gap 0.042 inch. Since the bolt head has six wrench faces, it is fairly easy to estimate rotating the bolt 1/6 of a revolution, or one face, or 0.007 inch.
Furthermore, with a little eyeball engineering, you can guesstimate 1/3rd of a rev of a hex bolt wrench face with the two wrenches in your hand. This is ~0.002 inch of valve gap adjustment per wrench face.
With a little practice, you can measure and record the gap when the valve tappet is on its heel, and can adjust it to within 0.002 inch of where you want it the very first time that same valve is on its peak.
This can really minimize the amount of hand cranking necessary when the engine is in the car. If the engine is on a stand, then perhaps a lot of cranking is not such a big deal.
This procedure works very well on Model A cams, and pretty well on Model B cams, though B cams have a slightly different lobe separation angle and the 'down valve' is not as centered on the heel when the other valve is at its peak.
Recommended Tappet Clearance (inches)
Camshaft
Design
Intake Valve
Clearance (gap)
Exhaust Valve
Clearance (gap)
Model A
A-6250
0.015 0.015
Model B
B-6250
0.015 0.022
Stipe
IB330
0.012 0.012
The table above shows the recommended design push rod clearances (cold) for several cam profiles. A typical clearance setting of 0.013 intake and 0.015 exhaust is also commonly used by many people, and also used when the cam profile or the cam grinder's recommendation is unknown.
It is best to avoid setting the exhaust gap too small, as this can create insufficient heat transfer time of the valves on the seats and burn the exhaust valves. Linear expansion of a hot exhaust valve also decreases clearances at a higher rate compared to an intake valve.




Resources:  http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ruleofnine.htm