Carburetor Idle RPM and Idle Air Mixture Adjustment

Carburetor Idle RPM and Idle Air Mixture Adjustment

1. There are two external carburetor adjustments, and they affect only the idle performance. They are the idle RPM and idle air mixture adjustments
2. Turn Gas Valve under dash on passenger side to open (Pointing down)
3. Preparation: Fully warm the engine up, move spark control (on left side of steering wheel) up, turn the under dash choke control knob full clockwise and then counter clockwise about one turn, and move the hand throttle lever (on the right side of the steering wheel) all the way up. If engine tend to die, pull the throttle lever down a little.
4. Preliminary Idle RPM adjustment: Turn the adjusting screw on the carburetor throttle arm until the end of the threads is making contact with the stop. You should now be able to put the hand throttle lever all the way up without the engine tending to die. Go back to the adjusting screw on the carburetor throttle arm and adjust it to a low RPM, just faster than where engine tends to stall. This will ensure that the carburetor idle circuit if functioning.
5. Idle Air mixture adjustment: Slowly turn the idle air mixture screw clockwise until the engine begins to stall, and note the position. Slowly turn the idle air mixture screw counter clockwise until the engine begins to stall and note the position. Now, adjust the screw about half way between the two positions, and you will often hear a very slight increase in engine RPM. (Idle air mixture screw should be about 1–1/2 turns out from full clockwise.)
6. Final Idle RPM adjustment: Pull the spark lever about 3/4 down. Readjust the idle RPM adjustment for the idle speed that you prefer. (If adjusted too high, you will likely tend to grind gears when driving.)

Source: http://www.model-a.org/procedures_full.html

Starting Procedure and Shut Down Procedure

Often perceived carburetor problems are actually the result of using improper procedures. So, applicable procedures are documented here.

Starting Procedure

1. Engage emergency brake by pulling back on it.
2. Push lever left of steering wheel (Spark Control) all the way up (Retard)
3. Pull lever right of the steering (Hand Throttle) half way down
4. Turn Gas Valve under dash on passenger side to open (Pointing down)
5. Turn Choke Control Valve (under right side of dash) full clockwise and back off 1/4 turn. If it's quite cold out, it may be better to open a full turn.
6. Turn Ignition Switch on (Clockwise)
7. Push in clutch and put Transmission in Neutral
8. Pull Choke Control Out
9. Turn engine over 3 Revolutions – Choke in on 3rd Revolution
10. When Engine Starts – Push Throttle Lever (Right Lever) Up
11. Put Left Lever all the way down. (Depending on how your engine is timed, 3/4 down might be better.)
12. Allow Engine to Warm Up. (The accelerator pedal will need to be used to keep engine running until it warms up.)
13. Turn Choke control (actually GAV) clockwise to smoothest operating condition.
14. When starting an engine, which is already warmed up, omit Choke steps.
15. Always put Left Lever (Spark Retard Position) all the way up when starting & then down when driving.
16. Have Fun Driving!

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Shut Down Procedure

1. Engage emergency brake by pulling back on it.
2. Push Left Lever (Spark Control) all the way up (retard position)
3. Push Right Lever (Throttle) all the way up
4. Turn Gas Valve under dash on passenger side to closed position (pointing to the Left). If vehicle is going to be left over night, or similar circumstances, it's a good idea to let the engine burn up the majority of the gasoline in the carburetor by letting engine run until it stalls.
5. Turn Off the Lights and any other Accessory
6. Turn Ignition Switch off (Counter Clockwise)

http://www.model-a.org/procedures_full.html

Structural Details of the Model A Tudor Sedan Body Cut Away

Source:  http://www.motormayhem.net/wp-uploads/2008/06/model-a-cutaway1.jpg

Vintage Ford Model B engine is Alive & Well in our Depression Era Big Car

Vintage Ford Model B engine is Alive & Well in our Depression Era Big Car

Posted by admin December - 13 - 2011 - Tuesday

I am happy to report that the long awaited return of our Ford Model B race engine to our Depression Era Big Car is now complete. The engine is installed and running great. The new engine carries great oil pressure, consistent compression of 115-120psi. and no sign of any coolant leaks. We plan to do a bit of additional tuning and then add the cowling back on the car. As you can see from the following images, this car carries an on-board battery, starter, and mini alternator to make getting the car to and from events easy.

 
  
 

I have also included a close up photo of the Ford factory replacement block Diamond Casting mark on the engine block.

Because most of the car’s internal features are visible at this time, I have added photos of the vintage 1928 Franklin steering components, front and rear suspension detail, and on-board battery box.

Restored 1928 Franklin Steering

Vintage Ford Rear Axle note Safety Wire

On-Board Battery System

Front Suspension and Steering Detail

Source:  http://flashbackracing.com/2011/12/vintage-ford-model-b-engine-is-alive-well-in-our-depression-era-big-car/

 

302 Corba Jet

ugly:::

FORD RACING COYOTE ALUMINUM 5.0 CRATE ENGINE M-6007-M50B MUSTANG COBRA BOSS 302

Ford Racing's aluminum 5.0L Mustang Boss 302 crate engine takes the Ti-VCT 5.0L engine to the next level of performance with high flow CNC cylinder heads and revised intake to deliver 444 horsepower and 380 ft.-lb.+ of torque (with premium fuel). The lightweight aluminum cylinder block features cross-bolted main bearing caps and thick main bearing bulkheads for bottom-end strength. For the track, the oil pan features a large sump 8.5 qt capacity with revised oil pan baffling for improved oil control under hard cornering.

• 444 hp @ 7400 RPM
• 380 lb-ft of torque @ 4500 RPM
• High-performance 5.0-liter, four-valve Ti-VCT engine
• Displacement 302 cu. in. 
•  3.63 bore x 3.65-in stroke
• Aluminum block 
• Forged steel crankshaft
• Upgraded sinter-forged connecting rods for improved strength
• Forged aluminum pistons
• Aluminum cylinder heads, DOHC, four valves per cylinder, variable intake, variable camshaft timing, 
• High-strength aluminum-alloy cylinder heads with fully CNC-machined ports and chambers for exceptional high-rpm airflow without sacrificing low-speed torque 
• Sodium-filled exhaust valves for improved heat dissipation
• 11.0:1 compression ratio
• Revised composite intake system with shorter runners, inspired by Ford Racing's Daytona Prototype engine program
• 80 mm single bore "drive by wire" throttlebody
• Includes manual transmission engine harness and flywheel
• Vehicle harness and PCM not included
• Boss 302 crate engine shown with optional Ford blue coil pack covers FRPP part # : M-6P067-M50B and NVH insulator pads, Ford dealer part # :CR3Z-6N041-A. sold separately.
• Engine mount bosses and bellhousing mount pattern common to 4.6L modular engines.
• Photo and specs may vary. 
• Engine weight: 444 lbs

AR Early MODEL A FORD THROTTLE LINKAGE

MODEL A FORD THROTTLE LINKAGE , VERY EARLY, START OF PRODUCTION - JUNE 1928

 

 

high compression head

   Brumfield 7.1 CR cylinder head.  NO reserve.  

     You can tell it's a 7.1 because of the recessed spark plug holes.  

     Nothing wrong with this head, just don't need it anymore.  

     If you want more power to make your model A go up the hills, THIS is the cylinder head for you! 

     Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.  

     Be sure to check out my other items as well! 

Thanks!